Maison Roche de Bellene Bellenos Crémant de Bourgogne Brut

France. I’m always on the hunt for a holiday sparkler. It has to hit the sweet spot of excellence, uniqueness and price. All the great deals I was able to access last year are gone as wineries deal with loss of vintages due to fire, insatiable consumer demand and the notorious supply chain. It was tough to find this one and it’s a beauty. Crémant is what we call sparklers from France that don’t come from Champagne. This one hails from Burgundy, famous for great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the exact grapes that go into sparklers from that famous region to its North) with the addition of Burgundian originals Aligoté (a white) and Gamay (of Beaujolais fame). I find that this one is very much like a real Champagne from the tiny bubbles and rich golden color to the essence of fine pastry on the nose and palette. All kinds of fruit make this one interesting: Meyer lemon, ripe nectarines, dried strawberry and some tropical fruit notes. It’s a great wine to test your blind tasting skills! The Maison represents a new generation approach (winemaker and vintner pere Gerard to fils Nicholas) to wine making in Burgundy- sourcing grapes and juice to make wines along the spectrum of all that Burgundy has to offer. Their website says this wine goes with everything. I’d never disagree with a French person’s assessment of food and wine pairings, but I do think I would like this best with any variety of fried fish, olives or fresh cheeses. Retail: $25.3

Morgan Winery Albariño, Arroyo Seco 2019

Morgon has been around a long time, one of the first to make a go of committing to wine making in the Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands, long before other wineries found their way there. This area is unique. It’s on the backside of the mountains that make Big Sur possible, facing the valley floor and all the heat it brings. But the Salinas Valley gets a trough of cool air and fog from the Monterey Bay. And, you know, grapes love hot days and cool nights. This is one of the best California Albariños that I have had the pleasure to taste. Although the terrain of this central California AVA and Albariño’s native Northwestern Spain could not be more different, this wine retains some of the marine characteristics of salinity and wet stone of Galicia and all the fruit. It’s a pretty wine with pear, spring flowers, lime, guava and white peach. On the palette more of the tropical fruits come out and the lime becomes more balanced. Like wine from the homeland, this one would pair well with any shellfish. I even felt that grilled shrimp would a good match. It’s a rich enough wine to handle those grill marks without fighting them. I also thought this would a good salad wine. It’s a bonus to find a good salad wine since it’s such a hard food to pair and given some of those New Year’s resolutions, there may be a lot of salad in your future.  Retail: $24

Lange Estate Pinot Gris Classique Willamette Valley, 2021

Can we ever find enough Pinot Gris? I’m saying no to that! To me, Pinot Gris walks the line between that rich mouth feel of a Chardonnay without that annoying oak and the tart expression of many Sauvignon Blancs. Native to Burgundy, it is a mutation of Pinot Noir. Though it may still grown in very small quantities there, it found it’s home northeast in Alsace. Where it excels and finds its best expression. Although, the grape has traveled through Germany and Austria to Italy (where it’s known as Pinot Grigio), I believe Oregon Pinot Gris come to closest to those in Alsace and this one is no exception. It sees some oak which gives it a richer mouth feel and more complexity. It was named an “Editor’s Choice” by Wine Enthusiast.  

            Nose: pears, apples, marzipan, kiwi and Meyer lemon

            Palette: tropical fruits, ripe pear balanced with lemon-line minerally acidity

            Pairing: your favorite salad, any seafood, but especially those coated in butter or go traditional with a plate of Alsatian sausages.

 I visited Lange Estate last summer. Willamette is a heavenly place with tree covered hills and little country towns. There are a few bigger wineries on the main roads, but most of the wineries are up long and winding roads. Lange is at the end of one of those roads, high atop the valley. We spent some time with the winemaker, Don and Wendy were early in the development of Pinot Gris, one of the first 4 to make this wine. Jesse, their son, makes the wine, making this a family affair. Retail: $22

Mauritson Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley, 2020

Sonoma. When I learned that my distributer carries Mauritson wines I was excited, because this is the family who owns the famous Rockpile Vineyard in northern Sonoma County, very near Lake Sonoma, in fact they actually owned the acreage that lies at the bottom of the manmade lake. I had a lot of Rockpile Zin when Rosenblum made one, while he was alive, before he sold the company… OK, that is another wine story. The family has been in the business of farming and ranching for over 150 years, but only started making wine in the 1990s when son Clay took an interest in wine making. Last week, I, along with wine club member Jenn (among others) had the amazing opportunity to meet Emma Kudritzki Hall, who made this wine. From her learned a lot about the science of winemaking and the seemingly natural intuition needed to go from vineyard to bottle. I appreciated the inclusive and supportive environment that is her cellar and of course, was delighted to taste the wide range of wines they produce. This Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect cross between a white Bordeaux (round fruit, smooth) and a Sancerre (citrusy acid, minerally), which makes sense since half of it spent time in very large barrels (foudres) and half in stainless steel. On the nose I found gooseberry, candied lemon rind and guava with a slight grassiness. On the palette the acidity was balanced. The citrus turned toward lime zest, but there was also bright touch of tangy sweetness, like a Pixi stick; all followed by green melon and honeydew. On my holiday table, I’d like to have this with a salad of tangy greens, roasted butternut squash, ricotta salata, fennel and pomegranate seeds. It would also be great with the bird itself. Retail: $28

Birichino Malvasia Bianca, Monterey, 2021

I’m going on a limb this month with my Italian American/California selections. I think I was inspired by my Italian newsletter a few months ago. Earlier this year I tasted this Malvasia Bianca and was impressed at the complexity of the wine- such a careful balance to sweet flowers, rich fruit and a completely dry finish. The grape is an ancient one, originating in Greece, but it can be found all over Europe with various names, sweetness levels and even colors (some varieties are red). With the exception of a few prestigious dessert wines from Eastern Europe, the Bianca varietal is the most popular and typically the driest. The best in Italy come from Friuli- the region in the high northeastern region on the border of Slovenia. This one reminds me of those Biancas.

Nose: perfumed with lychee, wildflowers, honeysuckle tangerine blossoms and lime

Palette: you expect sweet, but you get a bone-dry wine with expressive pear, apricot, gentle lemon and fresh minerality

Pairing: soft cheeses & fruit, very cold on a last hot day of summer

Birichino is based in Santa Cruz sourcing grapes primarily from the Central Coast. Alex and John bring their multi-country experience to organically farmed grapes and prides themselves on little intervention in the wine making process- just approaching a natural wine. In reading their tasting notes and website content, it’s clear that the funk on the nose matches the funk in their personality. They report that most of their vineyards were planted in the “late Disco era”. This is the closest I’ll probably come to bringing you a natural wine. Now you have a sense of what all the kids are talking about. Retail: $18

Nisia Rueda Verdejo, Old Vines, 2020

Jorge Ordoñez is something like the Spanish version of Kendall-Jackson or Bill Foley. He started as an importer and has expanded to vineyard and winery (bodega) developer throughout Spain (and parts of Portugal). If you are in a wine shop looking to experiment with Spanish wines, it’s a good idea to look for the little Jorge Ordonez Selections on the back label. Bodegas Vatan produces this lovely Verdejo from the best vineyards in Rueda.

Nose: It’s a pretty one with stone fruit, flowers, ripe lemon and wet stone

Palette: Pear, white peach & pink grapefruit, spicy zest on the finish, balanced acidity

Pairing: Shellfish, Mahon cheese, grilled chicken salad

Verdejo is an ancient varietal native to Rueda (northwest of Madrid) where it has thrived in sandy soils since the 1800s. Although Verdejo is the primary grape of Rueda, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo and Virua (which is sometimes in the blend) are also produced there. This one is 10O% Verdejo from vines are over 100 years old. Verdejo is also easily confused with the Portuguese Verdelho and the Italian Verdello, but each are distinct grapes. Retail: $19

Love by Léoube Rosé, 2020

Léoube consistently produces some of the best Rosé in Provence. After successful organic farming in England, the Bramford family bought Léoube in Provence and  smartly hired acclaimed winemaker Romain Ott in 2000 to revive the estate. Since then, they focused on rosé and the accolades began to pour in. All organic, this Classical Provencal Rosé blend of Grenache and Cinsault.

Nose: fresh strawberry, hints of tangerine, light fresh herbs

Palette: Raspberry and red currant, backed up with a pleasant minerality and a good amount of acid

Pairing: grilled chicken or shrimp brushed with butter, lemon and thyme;   

Their French website says to serve while playing pêtanque, at pool parties, the beach, or was an aperitif with friends. I wholeheartedly agree! Wine Enthusiast 90- which is pretty good as not a lot of Rosés get a rating at all. Retail: $22

Capezzana Villa di Carmignano, 2017

Carmignano is a city just 10 miles from Florence and occupies a historic place in the history of wine making in Italy due to its ties to the Medici family and the tradition of blending Sangiovese (the wine of the region) with Cabernet Sauvignon- long before Super Tuscans were a thing. The winery, “Capezzana” was first referenced as a place where wine was made in 804 A.D. Artifacts, show that as much as 3,000 years ago, Romans also made wine in the area. That’s a lot of history! The Contini Bonacossis family now owns the winery and it has become one of the most respected in Carmignano. A Carmignano must be at least 50% Sangiovese, this one is 80% with Cabernet Sauvignon making up the remaining 20%.

Nose: So pretty and so much going on! Black cherry, brambly blackberry, dired herbs, red roses, dusty oregano. 

Palette: In contrast to the nose, there are more red fruits on the palette. Bing cherry, ripe red plum are followed up by a graphite, minerally finish. The tannins are “adolescent”- meaning that they might dry you up a bit.

Pairing: Braised beef, roasted mushrooms, steak over a wood-burning BBQ and, of course, pasta with a rich marinara.

I characterize this as a “grown-up” wine. You can save it for a couple of years, if you’d like. To drink sooner, be sure to give it a good decant. It’s a beauty for the price. Scored 93 points by Decanter and Vinous. Enjoy! Retail: $33

Parkman Cellars “TheHoller” Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 2019

I have been looking for a Washington Cabernet to bring you that fit MWA’s intersection of price and quality and The Holler made the cut. The Columbia Valley is a huge appellation east of the Cascades stretching from Yakima to Walla Walla and from both sides of Columbia River gorge (it dips into Oregon) up to north of Spokane. Almost all of Washington’s smaller appellations fall within it. This wine comes from 12 different vineyards and several of those appellations (Royal Slope and Horse Heaven Hills to name 2). The blend is classic Bordeaux with Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, & Petite Verdot. It’s a lovely expression of Washington fruit and shows that WA wines can achieve depth and complexity.

             Nose: ripe blackberry and plums, tomato leaf, dried herbs, cocoa, graphite

            Palette: cassis, black plum, boysenberry, herbs, cedar,

            Pairing: any red meat, but ideally with a grilled ribeye

 I had the good fortune to visit Sparkman Cellars in November. Although all their grapes come from the other side of the Cascades, their winery is in rapidly growing Woodinville, just outside Seattle. Chris and Kelly, founders & winemakers were generous with their time, taking a break from cap-punching to show us around and offer us outstanding barrel tastings. They are music lovers and die-hard Volunteers (very proud of their beat down of the Tide this year). 93 in Wine Spectator. Retail: $35

The Paring Pinot Noir, 2020

Prestigious Santa Barbara producers JONATA and The Hilt, created The Paring line to show case the versatility of SB County wines, as they can “experiment and excite- without rules.” I don’t really like rules, so I’m naturally drawn to these wines. But, the big draw here is the quality- they use the same vineyard sources as their big-sister wines that sell for much more than these. I chose the Pinot Noir since it has been a while since I offered a Santa Barbara County Pinot. The Santa Rita Hills is the coolest climate for growing wine in the state (believe it or not), which as you know is a favorite climate of Pinot. There is great debate about which area produces the best Pinot in the state. Let the debate continue without me- I love SB Pinot Noir, especially those from the Santa Rita Hills (SRH). This one has been aged in new and neutral oak for 11 months, a great addition to a “value” wine. I can guarantee you that you won’t find a better Pinot for this price in from any CA region.

             Nose: blackberries, sweet red fruit, rosemary, violets w/ a bit of pepper

            Palette: black cherry, raspberry, flowers, dried herbs

 Pairing: the elegance of this wine makes it easy pairing with traditional PN foods: mushrooms, duck, butternut squash salad w/arugula, pomegranate seeds, nuts, dressed with rich olive oil and a concentrated balsamic

 Last summer I visited The Hilt Estate- the relatively new estate built to house and make the JONATA, Hilt and Paring wines. I know that many in the area were counting on this to raise the profile of the SRH and SB wines, hopefully a destination to draw folks out toward Lompoc. I’m not sure that has materialized as it was very empty when I was there and the tasting fee was in the Napa Valley price range. But it was beautiful. The huge windows in “the barn” face the chalk hills responsible for so much of the magic in SRH Pinots and Chardonnays. If you are a Rams fan, I’ll share that the owner of the Hilt (and Screaming Eagle) is Stan Kroenke, but no one at the winery will. The lengths our host went to, to avoid saying that name was amusing. Retail: $27.5

Giornata Aglianico, French Camp Vineyard, Paso Robles 2019

I wrote about Aglianico (alley-on-ico) de Vulture in that same Italian Wines newsletter referenced above. I love this grape, not only because it has a spooky name, but because it is big and bold just like the food of southern Italy. The dark-skinned grape is native to Campania, in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius (and Basilicata, a bit further out of the shadow). Young, it packs both tannin and acid, but it as it matures these soften into a cornucopia berries and lots of earthy spicy notes. If you drink it soon, it definitely will need food. Think about the all the amazing food from Naples and then you get an idea of this wine is like. In CA we grow just 70 acres of Aglianico. If you save it for 3-5 years you will get a different wine. If you want to try that, I can easily get you another bottle.

 Nose: ripe raspberry, red plum, cranberry, blackberry, blueberry, fresh herbs

Palette: that same fruit along with a meaty, spicy finish, even a bit of leather

Pairing: pasta puttanesca, grilled flank steak with a Italian inspired chimichurri, a loaded meat lovers pizza on a bed of San Marzano-based sauce.

Giornata is based in Paso, led by the Terrizzi winemaking/owner duo Brian and Stephanie- who fell in love in winemaking school at Fresno State and spent their honeymoon traveling to the best producers in Italy. Their goal was to take their Italian knowledge and experience and make high quality Italian varietals in California. There are a lot of tannins, so be sure to decant for an hour or two before you have it with your amazing Italian dinner. Retail: $35

Kokomo Wines North Coast Cuvee 2019, Sonoma Coast

I have had a soft spot for this winery for a long time. It’s named after the hometown of the owner/winemaker, Kokomo, Indiana, which happened to be the hometown of my dear friend Ted- the French expat who welcomed me to his villa for about 15 summers. Since I first visited Kokomo, the wines have progressively improved. Erik’s partner owns and farms most of the east of Dry Creek vineyards that provide the fruit for the terroir-focused wines.

Nose: pretty; black plum, boysenberry, dusty lavender, baking spices

Palette: rich and tangy; blackberry, black plum, clove, anise, candied oranges, white pepper, firm, but not over powering tannins

Pairing: pasta puttanesca, braised or grilled beef, rich stews

The wine is inspired by those of Chateauneuf de Pape, but made in CA style, with the addition of Zin and Petite Sirah to the traditional CDP Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. This wine brings in grapes from Mendocino County’s Redwood Valley and Sonoma’s Bennet Valley- both relatively warm growing areas. But Erik manages the heft and has made a balanced, elegant wine. Retail: $29

Pombal do Vesuvio, Douro, 2018          

I’m just thrilled that I can bring you this wine. The Quinta (estate) do Vesuvio is on the banks of the Douro River in Portugal, founded by the legendary Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferrerira. In the 18th century. Ferreirinha (her family nickname) inherited her vineyards and managed to outlive her husband before he squandered the fortune. At 33 she took over control of the estate- becoming one of the first women in wine. She was a leader in the battle against phylloxera. Legend says that she was the one who invented the concept of grafting European varietals on American rootstock to fight the pest. I chose to believe that legend, though I’m pretty sure she just brought the technique to Portugal, saving their wine industry. She also pioneered other vineyard innovations such as planting to enable maximum exposure to sunlight. The estate is now a part of the Symington Family conglomerate, who has done a superb job in preserving the famous estate.

Nose: What’s not on this nose? Bright black plum, raspberries and currants; vanilla, cocoa dust, fresh minerality, flowers, leather, black olive.

Palette: Red currant, lush blackberry, spice on the finish.

Pairing: Grilled and roasted meat of any kind, but I say have it with your favorite elevated hamburger. Saving it for fall, make a Portuguese stew of linguica, potatoes, carrots, onion and throw some kale in there for color.

Pombal is the 2nd level red wine of the estate. It is simply lovely with an elegance that takes the 1st level wine years to achieve. Like most Portuguese wines this is a blend of several grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarel. A larger proportion of Touriga Franca gives this wine its silky smoothness and floral aromas. 92 points Wine & Spirits, 91 points Wine Enthusiast. Retail: $30

Three by Wade Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 2018

The wine press has certainly been in love with telling the story of the NBA winos. They bring their best wines and jump on someone’s yacht for an afternoon of fun and have giant cellars fueling enviable parties. Dwayne Wade is one of those, but has taken it a step further in creating Wade Cellars. Dan tells me that the “3” refers to his jersey number, not a 3-pointer. There is a lot going into Dwayne and the “3”- you can check it out here: https://www.nba.com/heat/news/whatsinanumber2011

Nose: black plums, graphite, blackberries, cloves, tobacco, dried rose petals, olives

Palette: bright fruit and acidity, blueberry, blackberry, dusty, well integrated tannins

Pairing: filet mignon, grilled flank steak, a hearty stew

Wade’s wines are made in partnership with Jayson Pahlmeyer, owner of that iconic Napa winery. Well, I guess Gallo owns it now, but you get what I mean. Wine of this quality is a steal at this price which could easily sell for double. Maybe it’s a benefit of a winery owned by a very rich man- most don’t do this and I appreciate Wade for it. Retail: $39

Smith Woodhouse Late Bottle Vintage Port, 2008   

What a powerhouse Port we have here! Smith Woodhouse like many Port Houses/Lodges, was founded in 1784 by the English- this one by Christopher Smith a member of Parliament and Lord Mayor of London. The Woodhouse brothers later joined him. Also, like many Port Houses, this one is now part of one of the large conglomerates that dominate the Port landscape. What is nice, is that these companies allow individual Lodges to retain their distinctiveness. See my September newsletter goes into more detail, but the Late Bottle Vintage is usually the 2ndbest wine of the vintage and if a vintage year was not proclaimed, then it’s made of the best wine of the vintage (2008 was not a vintage year). Their vineyards are nestled in a valley just off the River Douro. It gets a variation of sun, making the growing season a little longer producing a well-balanced wine, emphasizing its floral nature. Given the age of this wine, those flowers have dried out a bit making a very pleasant blend of violets and dried herbs- almost like a Herbs de Provence. There is also a lot of fruit here. On the nose there’s dusty red cherry, ripe strawberry, opening up to a brighter black plum and blueberry. On the palette, this wine is big and rustic. The tannin and acid structure balance each other, so that the rich, ripe fruit can come through. I loved the notes of dates and figs. This wine spent 4 years in the barrel, so you will definitely find a background of well-integrated oak. One of the things I learned in Porto this summer was how well LBVs pair with lamb or beef. I also tried with it with some chorizo and it was great. But, of course, it’s also great with all the other traditional Port partners: fois gras, walnuts w/ honey & blue cheese, and any chocolate dessert you may be enjoying this weekend. This wine will keep for a couple of weeks stored in the fridge. If you have any left at the end, you can replace the water in your brownie mix or sauté it with mushrooms and serve it over polenta or a steak, or simply use it as a reduction when you’re clearing the pan drippings. I must mention that as I was working on these notes, I opened my new Wine Spectator and this wine was highlighted, receiving a score of 91. It also received a 92 from Robert Parker. Retail: $38