Viva Italia!
With over 350 varietals, Italy is one of the hardest wine countries to understand. In this column (a reprise from 2018) I won't be able to give you everything you need to know, but if you print it out and take shopping or dining, you’ll be a much more confident Italian wine consumer. I had the good fortune to be in Rome earlier this year and drinking it every day reminded how wonderful it is.
Let's start with what you probably know- Chianti from Tuscany specifically- that place of bucolic foodie dreams. The dominant red grape here is Sangiovese and is commonly mixed with a bit of something else and comes in several forms. A basic Chianti is a light bodied wine with cherries, tea, and herbs- it's both tannic and acidic- perfect for the foods of the region. Better forms are Chianti Classico (from a specific area) Chianti Reserva- which spends more time in the barrel. There are more rules, but I'm keeping it simple. We move over to the village of Montalcino and we find the top Tuscan, Brunello di Montalcino. These are 100% Sangio, barrel aged (more rules), coming from the best vineyards. Truly a special treat. It's little brother Rosso di Montalcino is often made from younger vineyards. These are great values- look for them. To the west, we find the Super Tuscans, which blends Cabernet and other French varietals in with that Sangio to make a bolder wine.
Heading north, Piedmonte is home to what is commonly considered to be Italy's best wines- but you likely haven't heard of them. Why? A lot of these wines are misunderstood and a lot of them aren't approachable for quite a long time- and we here in the USA don't really like to wait for our wine to age. So we miss out on the wonders of Barolo and its sister Barbaresco. Named after communes, these wines are made from Nebbiolo- a grape that few know about. Barbaresco is softer, more elegant, aged for less time (more rules) than the Barolo, which can be harsh when young- tannic and acidic. Both need time, but the Barolo may need as much as 20 years before it reaches its peak, Drink it too early and you'll probably wonder what all the fuss is about. Classic flavors here are cherries, mulberries, tar, roses, leather, tobacco, herbs and spices. They are complex and cry out for the amazing food of the region (real foodies go here). But Piedmonte has many other treasures. The rich, juicier, more friendly Barbera will please most red wine drinkers. The Whites are fun too- the Asti Spumantes are Moscato Bianco sparklers- many are dry, not the sweet ones of the past. Try an Arneis if you like Chardonnay or a Gavi if you Sauvignon Blanc.
Northern Italy (east of Milan) is home to even more Sparkling wines. Franciacorta is the Champagne of Italy because of its quality, the traditional way in which it is made and the grapes used (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc). I was so pleased to see this by the glass everywhere we stopped for a drink in Rome. It’s harder to find here, but there are usually a couple of solid offerings at Total Wine. You are already familiar with Prosecco, made just north of Venice, but just to the west of Venice you will find the lovely Lambrusco- a red sparkling wine that makes for a fun summer BBQ pairing. They make it Rosado style as well. We can’t leave the north without mentioning Pinot Grigio- ubiquitous to every by-the-glass menu. If you want to up your Pinot Grigio game look for “Collio,” “Friuli Colli Orientali,” or “Alto Adige” on the label as these are the best growing regions.
A region you are going to start hearing more about is Campania, home to Naples, Sorrento and the Almafi Coast. I love their principal red wine, Aglianico (Al-e-on-i-co ), the best being the Aglianico del Vulture, Algianico del Taburno and Taurasi. These wines are intense with great fruit, smoke, coffee, leather and earth. They need a good decanting to soften the edges, but the reward is a great food wine that goes with so well with grilled meat and anything made with those lovely San Marzano tomatoes of the region. There are also unique and yummy whites like Fiano (think of a lighter Viognier), Greco di Tufo (like a minerally Sauvignon Blanc), and Falanghina (a bit like a Muscadet). I try these every time I happen upon them. I also would like to commend Campania for having fun grape names.
With 350 varietals, it’s no surprise that every region has their own wine. The Nero d'Avola is another that I reach for. This dark, peppery, fruit forward wine hails from Sicily, but can be found in other parts of the south. The white, Vermentino, a white grape grown throughout Italy- is racy and robust with lemon, nuts, and green apples. Try one from Sardinia. And while you are that part of the Italian wine aisle, if you are a Grenache fan, check out Sardinia’s Cannonau, it’s the same grape. Rome has its lovely Frascati. Orvieto has its namesake wine that I love so much. And Abruzzo (on the Adriatic Coast) has its Montepulciano (the grape) d'Abruzzo. Plums, blackberries, pepper, spice and good tannins make this a lovely wine that is often one of the best priced on the Italian wine list. I hope you are inspired to try Italian wines that are new to you. You may not have a lot of choices for some on the shelf, but it’s always a good idea to start with a medium price point and then go up from there as your wallet allows. Remember, in vino veritas.